In truth this should have been updated some time ago as my son informed me on the phone from Sacramento. The strident impetuosity of youth is, in limited doses, a fine thing though one feels rather that the son/father relationship becomes blurred as he in structs me on my shortcomings of which I confess I have a few. Of course when he is older he too will discover that such blemishes on one's character are simply to be regarded as ideosyncracy !
The mature reader may be pleased to know that my five Jordan trips starting on 22 February are almost fully booked - out of 60 places that were available 1 remains while there are only 2 for Syria. Like her majesty The Queen I have a limited interest in certain aspects of the modern world but unlike her majesty I do not have a secretary to do my Facebook and Twitter but work (If it can truly be called that) seems to be going rather well.
Speaking of age/time I must say I can't wait to get back to Palmyra. As the sun starts to sink over the oasis and a soft, pink glow settles briefly on the cobbled avenues that were once the hub of this great city of the Roman Empire life seems magical- as if one has gone back in time. Palmyra by evening is quite devoid of people, the only sound is that of my breathing and Dire Straights as I jog passed temples and the emptyness of the Syrian desert.
I hope to keep this up over the next few months but with 6 trips almost back to back I may not - don't forget adventures await in Bukhara and Bu Agai Dagi - more later !
Friday, 21 January 2011
Sunday, 17 October 2010
Fall in Scotland
Well, it's almost time to go. Each Fall and Spring I yearn to return to the east and yet this year it will not be quite so easy. My part of Scotland, Inverness-shire, has had the most glorious season with colours magical. Stags are roaring as the first frosts come and there has been a wee bit of fresh snow on the high tops but on Friday I leave for Jordan and know when I arrive to meet Yassas at the airport it will be as it always has. Ammar will have my mini bus ready, Amjad will be ready to roll and all will be well. This season I'm taking a small tent for Salim's daughters who, like Mum and Dad, prefer to sleep in a tent even if it is inside the bedroom - you can take the Bedu out of the desert but you can't take the desert out of the Bedu. There will plans to make as next Spring Salim and I ride to Mudowraa as Lawrence once did. He went to blow up a Turkish train - we go to make tea!
My friend and agent in Amman Ammmar was in hope of starting a new business providing daipers to eastern Turkey of all things - wonder how that went ! The next message will be from Amman Insh Allah
My friend and agent in Amman Ammmar was in hope of starting a new business providing daipers to eastern Turkey of all things - wonder how that went ! The next message will be from Amman Insh Allah
Wednesday, 6 October 2010
Syria
I can never quite get used to the idea of my moving at over 500 mph. We all do of course however all my early travells were by sea and since then much of my time has been spent walking at 4 mph so lazily drifting over Turkey on the way home from Syria, enjoying a meal over Bulgaria (Yes, I confess - airline food is OK by me) and a coffee over somewhere over central Europe before landing at Heathrow tickles my imagination. Crusaders built the greatest castles on earth in Syria before retreat to Cyprus where far below I could see Kyrenia where Deiordre makes the worlds best Kleftiko.
Syria was both hot and warm, Scotland is both windy and cold with the first snows on the Cairngorm Plateau. I shall, with luck, get a few hill days in before I head back to Jordan on the 22nd to lead 4 trips. Do I ever loose interest. No, too many freinds to visit and not enough time.
Syria was great by the way. I knew everyone from previous trips so it seemed more a reunion old friends.
What was the highlight ? Well, for me perhaps two things. The desert road to Palmyra took us by a route of wilderness and solitude until suddenly the horizon was punctuated by great walls that stretched from a huge arched gateway - the entrance to this once great city of trade on the Silk Road now abandoned after being laid waste by the Mongol horde in the 12th century. Perhaps its because I even like airline food that our Farewell Dinner at Beit Jabri in Damascus seemed a unique experience but I think not. Beit is a wonderfully
preserved Ottoman house dating from 1737 where the food and atmosphere are wonderful. I'll be back with trips in April and again in September - much to look forward to Insh Allah Habeebee (God willing my friend)
Syria was both hot and warm, Scotland is both windy and cold with the first snows on the Cairngorm Plateau. I shall, with luck, get a few hill days in before I head back to Jordan on the 22nd to lead 4 trips. Do I ever loose interest. No, too many freinds to visit and not enough time.
Syria was great by the way. I knew everyone from previous trips so it seemed more a reunion old friends.
What was the highlight ? Well, for me perhaps two things. The desert road to Palmyra took us by a route of wilderness and solitude until suddenly the horizon was punctuated by great walls that stretched from a huge arched gateway - the entrance to this once great city of trade on the Silk Road now abandoned after being laid waste by the Mongol horde in the 12th century. Perhaps its because I even like airline food that our Farewell Dinner at Beit Jabri in Damascus seemed a unique experience but I think not. Beit is a wonderfully
preserved Ottoman house dating from 1737 where the food and atmosphere are wonderful. I'll be back with trips in April and again in September - much to look forward to Insh Allah Habeebee (God willing my friend)
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